In brief: We tried four touristy activities in Turkmenistan as cultural filler. Some were enjoyable, but we found mundane things just as revealing. Outside of the white monuments of the white city of Ashgabat (read…
In brief: At three locales in Turkmenistan - Nisa, Konye-Urgench, Merv - past empires can be imagined once again from the limited remains not crushed into dust. Traveling in the five Stans countries, we often…
In brief: The ostentatious capital of Turkmenistan is an eerie place, most of which is colored white and devoid of people. Though Turkmenistan is largely desert, it shares the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea…
In brief: At Mangystau, our first two days were thrilling. The third added a delightful coda: a mosque carved through stone, a creamy canyon, and an explosive finish. Day 3 Western Mangystau Click these links…
In brief: “Go to Mangystau,” our Kazakh friend advised. Our first day there more than justified the trip. The second delivered expansive vistas, monumental mounds, and a lot of balls. Day 2 Northern Mangystau Click…
In brief: “Go to Mangystau,” our Kazakh friend advised. But going required a big commitment of time and money. Here’s why it was worth the trouble. “Go to Mangystau,” our Kazakh friend advised. “It’s the…
In brief: Whether celebrating ancient practices or inviting devotion to Allah, the Kazakhs proudly herald their independence and depth of culture. In the 4th century BC, the Scythian or Saka people occupied the area now…
In brief: It's a much finer road with friends on it, as in Astana We have been fortunate to meet interesting people throughout our travels and maintain friendships long after. Especially in a country new…
In brief: When Astana became Kazakhstan's capital 30 years ago, a new city was built atop the old. It's wealthy, friendly, growing rapidly, and often monumental. Astana, Kazakhstan, is a largely invented capital city, created…