In brief: Not just a memorial to the pre-eminent of Portugal, the Pantheon of Lisbon delivers a host of pleasures.
The Pantheon in Lisbon is remarkable in many ways
- a thrilling Baroque church repurposed as a memorial;
- a burial and commemorative place for important Portuguese;
- a striking view over Alfama and the Tejo;
- a building that was not completed for 300 years, and therefore a byword here for a never-ending project.
Go for the beauty and the history.
From high atop Lisbon, the elegant Pantheon hovers over the Alfama district. Approaching from below makes for a bit of a humbling, neck-craning journey.
Intended to be the Church of Santa Engrácia, this structure was designed by the renowned architect João Antunes, whose death in 1712 halted the construction after 30 years. It replaced previous versions attempted during the 100 years before that, and would not be finished until the 20th century. The “obras da Santa Engrácia” is a phrase still used in Portugal to describe any endless project.
Inside, we discovered the splendid domes of the church. The central dome was the last bit to be finished in the 20th century.
The building’s open plan takes the shape of a Greek cross, a common Baroque design, with four tower areas at the corners which contain the memorials and burial sites. Various Presidents of the Republic are buried here, as are the Fado star Amália Rodrigues, footballer Eusébio, and the educational modernizer João de Deus. You’ll need to go to Belém for the elaborate tombs of poet Luís de Camões and explorer Vasco da Gama, but they are honored here.
The polychrome marble of the central hall looks splendid from the upper floor.
As if the surroundings were not engaging enough, we decided to have a bit of fun under the domes in the center of the hall.
An ebullient example of baroque organ design still occupies the original church’s niche.
From its preeminent position, the Pantheon gives extraordinary views from its rooftop out over the city and the river, as far as Cristo Rei and April 25th bridge.
(To enlarge any picture above, click on it. Also, for more pictures from Portugal, CLICK HERE to view the slideshow at the end of the itinerary page.)
