In brief: Neither Compostela pilgrims nor tourists would want to miss this World Heritage monument, still soaring in detail yet artfully enhanced since the 13th century.
In 1221, pilgrims journeyed through Burgos in northwestern Spain, the home of the Kings of Castile, on their way to Santiago de Compostela. They still do. But that year they could witness the start of a new Gothic cathedral ordered by the king, a cathedral that soon rewarded their journey with splendor and grace.
Today’s followers of the trail would not want to miss seeing this World Heritage monument, still soaring in detail as in the 13th century, yet enhanced with chapels and art over the hundreds of years since. We too were suitably awed.
The Gothic Cathedral impressively rules over its subjects across the large plaza in Burgos.
As with many such Cathedrals, the saints go marching within the archways of the portal.
The stained glass of the Sarmental rose window over the entryway above has gleamed on the southern entrance since the late 1200s. At the center surrounded by Biblical scenes, its blue clad bishop serenely affirms the message of the Gospel. Explosions during the 1813 attack by Wellington’s troops against Napoleonic forces holed up in Burgos ruined the other stained glass windows but miraculously spared this one.
What is it about Cathedrals that makes us continue to look up into the heaven? Yes, a rhetorical question.
There were so many glass apertures in the ceiling of the Cathedral. This is one of the prettiest, we thought, with the wonderful decorative detail around it.
Papamoscas and Martinillo perch high above the western entrance behind the choir. These automatons, operated by pulleys since the 16th century, move their arms and open their mouths in order to tell the time, though the bells drown out any sound they might make.
The large Papamoscas acts on the hour; the small Martinillo announces the quarter hours.
A gilded tree rises through this magnificent 15th century polychrome altarpiece in a side chapel at Burgos. Centered around Joaquin and Anne, parents of Mary, it relates the dream of Jesse about the family tree that ties Jesus to the House of David, with related prophets and saints.
The 18th century rococo ceiling of the Sacristy celebrates not just the coronation of Mary and the Annunciation, but the artist’s ability to fill every centimeter of the ceiling space with gold decoration, adoring figures, and even contemporary pastoral scenes. We were so overwhelmed we couldn’t take a straight photo.
The 16th century Golden Staircase mimics a huge pulpit and is adorned with images of vegetation, mermaids, ogres and other strange figures. It was built to prevent passage not allow it, as the prior staircase enabled the passage of goods from upper Burgos through the Cathedral to the river.
We were fortunate to amble along this aisle of the windowed cloister just when the sunlight made its most magical effects.
One of the most magnificent of the chapels takes pride of place in the ambulatory behind the main altar. The enormous 15th century Chapel of the Purification (or Constables) is almost a self-contained church in itself, with three altarpieces, heraldic stonework, elegant flooring, sculptures of two patrons on their tombs, and numerous paintings. Oh, and a delightful view upward as well.
This Nativity is one of many such sculpted reliefs behind the altar near the Chapel of Purification. Below it, some weird bearded woods-men dance in celebration at a rave.
The Cathedral’s walls from the inner courtyard display more of the Gothic splendor of the architecture.
(To enlarge any picture above, click on it. Also, for more pictures from Spain, CLICK HERE to view the slideshow at the end of the itinerary page.)
