A Ukraine to Remember


We were hesitant about visiting Ukraine. Wasn’t there a war going on? Why would Czech car rental shops not cover travel there? How might we find our way around its notoriously poor roads? Except for the war part, we were …

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Stones for the Departed: Return to the Ukraine of Our Ancestors


The custom in Jewish cemeteries is to place a pebble, or small stone, on the headstone at a grave site. In doing this, you affirm you remember the dead. It’s a custom that might have derived from the roughly heaped …

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