Jungle, forest, plains…and water of Rwanda


Rwanda is a small country; it only needs about 4 to 5 hours of driving to cross it. But it contains a diverse array of national parks and reserves, from the mountainous jungle of Volcanoes National Park (VNP) in the …

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Gorillas and the fourth wall


Virunga. Perhaps you have read about this natural treasure and its notable inhabitants, the endangered gorilla. Perhaps you have seen documentaries or the movie, Gorillas in the Mist. We were willing to venture into the Congo, experience the Virunga forest …

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Tiny Treasures at Isalo


“To see a world in a grain of sand and heaven in a wild flower, Hold infinity in the palms of your hand and eternity in an hour.” – William Blake Visitors come to Isalo National Park in the south …

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Rough riding


We’ve been on some very rough roads by car, but the one we took in the north of Madagascar was as bad as they get. India’s Himalayan routes are frequently blocked with avalanches, or at minimum regularly inundated with rocks. …

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Marojejy and its spirits


Marojejy is one of the most impressive national parks in Madagascar, with 55,000 hectares of primary rainforest, green mountains, spectacular views and twisting trails mounting over roots and rocks. It is one of six parks collectively designated UNESCO World Heritage …

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Staying Alive on Death Road


On the bus’s speakers boomed Highway to Hell. So we knew we were at the top of 65 kilometer long Death Road – carved into the sides of the steeply sloped Yungas mountains and dropping 3500 meters, or over 11000 …

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Tallinn – the Jewel of Estonia


During our six month stay in the Baltic countries, we found charms aplenty.  But the three capitals of these countries are the jewels in the northern European crown. Though beset with war and destruction for 1000 years, each now offers …

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Getting Bogged Up: A Slog thru a Soggy Land


Wet and wild, a peat bog is a landscape that literally does not want to let go of you. In late August, we walked and canoed about 10 – 15 kilometers through Kuresoo, at about 11000 hectares the largest of …

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Delizioso: Enjoying Italian Pleasures in Croatia’s Istria


The Dalmatian Coast, the long finger of Croatia fronting the Adriatic Sea, has long been praised for its shoreline delights, ancient ruins, myriad islands and historic cities like Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik. (Click here to see the article.) Somewhat overlooked …

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Dalmatian Spots: What lit us up on Croatia’s coast


We sat in one of the tight passageways of the city, dark except for the street lamps’ yellowish light gleaming on the stone block buildings and slanting off the sleek paving stones of the pedestrian-only street. It all looked wet …

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