Korea, Seoul, and the compactness of being

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In brief: As with their written language, Koreans pack a lot into a small space…but also understand the need for opening things up as well. Start with the written language: every word is made up of several syllables, each of …

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Joseon – Korea’s other dynasty

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In brief: For centuries, the Joseon dynasty ruled Korean. Its traces are many – in the palaces of Seoul, the ancestral home at Jeonju, and a quiet village at Yangdong.. On a chilly, drizzly day we took a bus to …

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Stoned in bronze: early Korean gravesites

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In brief: Across several hillsides, we wandered back 3000 years to the dolmens of the bronze age. Traces of early Korean civilization go back tens of thousands of years. In museums, we could see more tools and weapons from the …

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A Window on the Silla

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In brief: The Silla Kingdom of south-central Korea endured for nearly 900 years until 935. Today its legacy comes alive in its former capital, Gyeongju. It’s thrilling to discover a history completely unknown to us. The Silla Kingdom of south-central …

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Uncrossed borders – Korea’s DMZ

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In brief: For South (and likely North) Koreans, memories of war, of division are still strongly emotional and whose hopes for reunion, for peace still endure. We seized the opportunity to visit the DMZ (the demilitarized zone) of Korea, a …

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