Dem Bones Gonna Rise: Memento Mori in Kutna Hora

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During our stay in Prague, we had two chances to meditate on death, or rather meditate on meditations on death. This is not our usual habit while touring, but we were encouraged to do so at two ossuaries featuring artful …

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Simple Gifts: Slovakia’s Wooden Churches

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For centuries, in the eastern part of Poland and Slovakia, as well as the western part of Ukraine, the secular world has been quite unsettled. Russia, Germany/Prussia, Austro-Hungary, Tatars, Mongols and even Sweden – all fought, conquered or dominated these …

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Ruins and Revivals: A Danube Journey

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It’s all about the journey, not the destination. We’ve all heard that line before, whether noted about the potential of travel or preached about life’s passage. Over the years, for us, travel journeys have usually been much less interesting than …

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Shadows and Stones: the Jewish Quarters of Czechoslovakia

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Molded by hand out of dust and clay, like the Adam of Genesis, and given life by invoking God, the legendary golem carried a dual power. Intended as a protector of the Jewish community from its oppressors, the golem could …

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Pea and Coffee: Surprised in Brno

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Often travel is best when it surprises. Even when we plan the arc of our trips – X days here, check out this site there, Y days here, and so on – we keep things loose, open to oddities we …

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A lost world and the shot heard round it

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Most of us vaguely recall the story. Some duke gets killed in Eastern Europe and all hell breaks loose in World War 1. That story gets a new depth with a visit to Zakem Konopiste near Prague. a castle re-built …

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