The Baltic’s Three Jewels – Vilnius, Riga, Tallinn

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We planned on six months in the Baltic countries – Latvia, Lithuania and our home base of Estonia – though we weren’t completely sure how we would fill up those months. What we found were charms aplenty in their cities, …

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Tallinn – the Jewel of Estonia

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During our six month stay in the Baltic countries, we found charms aplenty.  But the three capitals of these countries are the jewels in the northern European crown. Though beset with war and destruction for 1000 years, each now offers …

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Vilnius – the Jewel of Lithuania

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During our six month stay in the Baltic countries, we found charms aplenty.  But the three capitals of these countries are the jewels in the northern European crown. Though beset with war and destruction for 1000 years, each now offers …

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Riga – the Jewel of Latvia

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During our six month stay in the Baltic countries, we found charms aplenty.  But the three capitals of these countries are the jewels in the northern European crown. Though beset with war and destruction for 1000 years, each now offers …

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De-fense: Body and Bay

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Saaremaa is a roughly 70 by 40 kilometer rectangular chunk of island just off the western shore of Estonia, capping the whole Gulf of Riga. Since the 19th century, people have traveled here for the health-giving waters, waters reputed to …

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Getting Bogged Up: A Slog thru a Soggy Land

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Wet and wild, a peat bog is a landscape that literally does not want to let go of you. In late August, we walked and canoed about 10 – 15 kilometers through Kuresoo, at about 11000 hectares the largest of …

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Latvia’s Drive-By Museum

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In the midst of a long day trip west of Riga, we chanced on an unusual museum, a testament to someone’s obsession for a subject – in this case, the enchantment of road building. Our plan was to drive to …

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Spit and Polish, Part 2

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In part 1, we discover why the Curonian Spit along the Baltic Sea is so unusual and engaging (click here to read it). In this part, we polish up our know-how about amber, the Baltic gold. One repeated pleasure of …

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Revered: The Hill of Crosses

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Heading from Vilnius to Riga, we diverted a bit to visit the renowned Hill of Crosses (Kryžių kalnas) near Siauliai, Lithuania. It’s really just two coupled mounds beside a country road in the middle of very flat fields. Yet on …

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Spit and Polish, Part 1

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In this part, we discover why the Curonian Spit along the Baltic Sea is so unusual and engaging. In part 2, we polish up our know-how about amber, the Baltic gold – finding the good, the bad and the sticky …

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