High over Portugal
Porto, from atop Torre dos Clerigos

High over Portugal

How could we have missed out on Portugal in our travels all these years, and especially Lisbon? We kept asking ourselves this question during our unplanned, but leisurely stay in the capital of Lisbon, plus…

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A Garden and Delights in Lisbon
Gulbenkian museum

A Garden and Delights in Lisbon

We took a recommendation and went to the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, a private collection by an developer of oil fields in Iraq early in the 20th century. As befits a devoted art collector, the 6000…

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Gone off: Mozambique’s divided old ports
Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, 1522

Gone off: Mozambique’s divided old ports

In brief: Two towns, split between colonialists and natives, long served as key African ports. Despite years of decline, both still tell the past and foretell better futures... They were vital ports once, both developed…

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Road Hogs – and Chickens – of the N1
Selling honey in reused bottles along the N1

Road Hogs – and Chickens – of the N1

National route N1, the principal and just about the only highway through Mozambique, curls north from the coasts of the south toward the highlands in the west before again cutting back to the coast. There…

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Maputo’s Surprising Style
Art deco Holy Cathedral, Maputo

Maputo’s Surprising Style

At the heart of Maputo, the capital city of Mozambique, stands a bronze statue of Samora Machel, the country’s socialist revolutionary hero and first President. From the elliptical Praça de Independencia, he hails or blesses…

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Spirits that Dance – Malawi rock art & rituals
Chazunda, the principal divine figure

Spirits that Dance – Malawi rock art & rituals

  • Post category:AfricaMalawi

Ten thousand years ago, in a region where currently Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi meet, members of the Batwa pygmy tribe recorded important features of their life on the rock walls of their shelters. Unlike other…

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Africa in miniature – Malawi’s diverse south
Rocking a puberty initiation ceremony, Mulanje

Africa in miniature – Malawi’s diverse south

  • Post category:AfricaMalawi

Most people think...central Africa, grasslands, savanna, big animals. Southern Malawi had its share of this. Though other countries might get the headlines for big animal wildlife, you can still see plenty in this small country…and…

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Malawian Forest Tales
Reedbuck landscape, Nyika

Malawian Forest Tales

  • Post category:AfricaMalawi

“You should go there,” a local suggested, “it’s a unique place in Malawi.” We had already experienced the lows and highs here. The heat-soaked grasslands and bush country of Majete and Liwonde where the wild…

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